The Left

A call was made to a trip to the notorious secret left. This day was heavy. When we arrived in the lineup, there was an anxious feeling. This wave has so many moods, and this day was clean but so hefty all at the same time. There was one other tow team, Ben Rufus and Sam, two absolute weapons. We later had a heavy conversation with Sam about a two-wave hold down he had had a week earlier at the right, which saw him unable to inflate, because he was pressed to the reef, until he was released to come up with blood coming from his nose and a headache that lasted for a week.. Heavy.

I was with my tow partner Tom Godden, an absolute weapon waterman and amazing tow partner. On our way out, we actually picked the wrong line coming through a shallow sandbank and ran the ski up high and dry and took us 5 min to push to deeper water, so we were running late and warmed up you could say haha

As I said before, it was an anxious lineup because the waves were hitting the reef so raw, and it was low tide, making it look so gnarly. Tom and I scanned the lineup until we saw a sick one come through, and Tom turned and asked if I wanted to go. I was frothing but apprehensive, all at the same time and said yes. When going past Ruffy, I turned to him and said, “guinea pig”, he gave me this look like, go ahead, I’ll be watchin.

Straight away, the first set came and looked like it was going to hit the reef so sick. When I started to go for this thing and was yelling at Tom ‘go, go , go’, thinking i’d need heaps of speed coming into it. I let go over this piece of water and it hit the shelf. Coming into it, it put me over this 1-meter mid-face step and then unloaded into the epic pit over the shelf. From there, we were on.

It was a sick session where I got some epic caves on a wave that is so crazy to even get in the pit out there. You have to come deep and even stall to backdoor this massive pit to purch in this gaping cavern.

Some trips and sessions will be etched in epic times, and this one with Tommy has got to be one of them. Epic crew and crazy heavy seas. Photos by @kim feast. Video @timcampbellphoto

The first couple of waves from the session.